Rajkot Patolas are single ikat weaves that are vertically resist-dyed, while Patal Patolas are double ikat weaves that are horizontally resist-dyed. The Surendranagar and Rajkot patola are a low-cost variation of the traditional technique, using low-cost raw materials leading to a price differential of 1: 100 times. During the flight, my curiosity led me to chat with one of the friendlier flight attendant lady crew member. It can take six months to a year or even more, depending on the length as well as the intricacy of the pattern to make one of these Patola sarees. Rohit bhai says, “On an average day, we have about a 100 visitors, and that goes up to a 1,000 with the onset of the tourist season in Gujarat.”. A black and white photograph shows the art of Patola weaving being taught to the daughters in the family. Below points shows the difference between patola silk and cotton silk sarees. In the plane, a lady in saree was sitting next to me on other side of the aisle in the same row. Current state of the art Region: In India, it came to be developed as a prominent handloom textile art in three major regions – Andhra Pradesh/Telangana, Gujarat, and Odisha. Double Ikat can also be found in Japan, Guatemala, and in the Indonesian islands of Bali and Kalimantan, but the more complex. This unique weave, usually made from silk, is a double Ikat and combines the techniques of tying, dyeing and weaving. It is postulated that 700 silk weavers of the Salvi caste of Karnataka and Maharashtra moved to Gujarat in the 12th century to acquire the patronage of the Solanki Rajputs, the ruling class of Gujarat and parts of Rajasthan at that time. These sarees are often larger and sharper compared to the Ikat designs in the intricate, relatively more popular Pochampally. Most Ikat designs are totally abstract and do not use a specific set of motifs and prints. Lady smiled and said, “Both Patola and Pochampally are from the same family of Ikat weave, when you look closely, they have their distinct features too”. 1,50,000, Each Patola piece takes immense effort and time. ( Log Out / But the fact is, the story of the Patola is one that will never fade, just like its colours. This highly prized craft is a closely guarded secret that is taught to just the sons of the family. Its samples most of them in the form of a saree hang in every textile museum in the world. Tied portion remains unexposed to color. Care guide Patola sarees are considered sacred in a number of communities. If that is too hefty a sum, you can always buy a Patola dupatta for approximately Rs.50,000. The patola loom is one of its kind in many ways. The warp and the weft silk threads are tied separately. Since this is not a time consuming weaving like Patolas this is cheper and produced fast. When we take into account Patola silk saris from Gujarat then one can find that there are two kinds of Patola saris namely Rajkot Patola and Patan Patola. Talking about why passing down the “family-secret” to the daughters has been followed for generations, Rohit bhai says, “Earlier, since you would find an alliance within the community of Patola weavers, the know-how of weaving was essential. Each sari takes four to six months to weave if two people work on it five days a week. Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. The yarn undergoes multiple cycles of tying and dyeing, following a specific order of colours. The most common motifs used in Patola are geometric designs of flowers, animals like elephants, birds like parrots, and human figures. Many consider Patola as the ‘ultimate manifestation of weaving perfection’ because the displacement of even one thread can resulted in a deformed pattern. This means the weaving process requires that much more concentration and precision. Puttapaka Ikat: The tie and dye technique used to create a special Ikat, in the Nalgonda district of Andhra – now Telangana – primarily in the village named Puttapaka – is the basis of these rare sarees. Once an exclusive inheritance of royalty and aristocracy, patola sarees were and still are a prized possession, worn exclusively on special occasions like vedic rituals and weddings. Even a tiny mistake can ruin the entire design. In fact, it took 34 years of constant research for two Swiss writers, Alfred Buhler and Eberhard Fischer, to pen a book The Patola of Gujarat. I don’t own a Patola or Pochampally saree. Mostly these saris are also sold under the name of more popular Pochampallis, though the two are somewhat different. Change ). Coupled with cheaper, single ikat Patola imitations flooding the market and jarring chemical dyes that are replacing natural dyes, genuine Patola is dying out. The art of Ikat which is integral to Patola has been popular in many countries across the world, especially in South East Asia and Central Asia. The process is time and labour intensive, requires high order of skill and dexterity. More the number of bindings and colors, more intricate & elaborate the design. A few years back, I was flying from Goa to Mumbai on an Air India flight. Patan Patola variant of double Ikat originated in India. The second procedure of combined Ikat has both warp yarns and the we being used together in different parts of the fabric. Isn’t this a Patola saree?” Pochampally Sarees, also known as Pochampalli Ikat, is a traditional garment that originates from Bhoodan Pochampally in the Nalgona District, Telangana State. The Patola worn by the Bohra Muslim community has just geometrical designs sans motifs throughout the fabric. Patola sarees are specifically denoted for Gujarat culture as they have their origin from patan. The warp and we threads are tied to resist the dye in order to achieve the final effect of the fabric and this process is repeated for every thread. A small number of hands working makes this a tediously long process. This strategic knotting is what contributes to the unique texture of double Ikat sarees. Weaving process Some say the Patola weavers were part of the spoils of a war which King Kumarapal of the Solanki dynasty won over the ruler of Jalan in Southern Maharashtra in 11th century, some say they were invited by King Kumarapal who was known to have a deep interest in Patola. But, even then, the colours remain intact,” says Rohit bhai. When you think of Ikat – intricate diamond shaped patterns, curved scroll and paisley designs come to mind. Special features While today that is not the case, the knowledge is still passed on to the women along with the men in the family.”. Since the patterns and yarn is quite different, they have their uniqueness to discuss. Other types of warp ikat patterns are primarily made in Odisha. These sarees were also mentioned in a 2000 year old Jain holy book, the 'Kalpsutra'. The lady quietly sitting on the other side of the aisle seat next to me sensed it, she looked at me, said, “It is true, Pochampally Ikat can create that “ripple” in the atmosphere, not just with your physique but with the confidence that comes to you when you drape on a Pochampally Ikat Saree.” Patola is a centuries old double Ikat weave, with its origins in Patan, the northern region of Gujarat. Their preciousness emerges from the uniqueness of color, patterns and textures they have. The rosewood sword shaped stick called the ‘Vi’, which is used for adjusting the yarns is where the Salvis get their name from. The fabric might wear out after a 100 years, not before that. Price range Any information shared on this blog website cannot be reused without author’s permission. Next time you see them in this uniform saree, do appreciate the saree weave. Change ), You are commenting using your Twitter account. The elephant (kunjar), flower (phul), girl (nari) and parrot (popat) designs are very common in Patola saris worn by Gujarati women and the elephant and tiger motifs are considered particularly auspicious. ( Log Out / All Pictures credited from Internet. Both the warp and weft are first tied, then resist dyed with extreme precision to retain the dyed designs on the field of the sari as well as on the motifs, without any seeping or blurring. Rajkot Patola is another type of ikat. My ignorant question followed, “What is a Pochampally Ikat? So, by end of that flight, I had learnt that this glorious weave, painstakingly hand dyed, handspun, and hand-woven to perfection, is a handloom treasure to have.